【雨林古茶坊】“歪果仁”眼中的雨林茶山行

Experiencing RainForest's Tea Tour in March雨林3月茶山行体验之旅

Walkingthrough tea mountains is an inspired experience which I love so much, so Ijoined the tea tour organized by Rain Forest, a well- establishedtea company built in 2012. Since I go to tea mountains often, the otherreason why I joined them was to learn standard processing. I heard lots ofrumors about Rain Forest, half good and half bad news before starting to XiShuang Ban Na. 穿越茶山是一个非常棒的体验，我非常喜欢。在我启程去西双版纳学习之前，我听到过很多关于雨林的谣言，好坏参半。雨林是一家专业做茶的公司，公司建于2012年。自从我常上茶山，吸引我加入了茶山行的一个原因是向他们学习标准化处理。

I also invited otherfriends, including 8 adults and 2 kids, and Nicoline comes from Norway. Thenext day after I applied this tea tour via my friend who runs one Rain Forestchain store, the employee contacted me for more details and inquire specialrequirements like food or religion, in order to arrange accommodation, whichimpressed me well. 这一次，我还邀请我的朋友，8个大人和2个孩子，Nicoline来自挪威。我印象特别好的地方在于，通过加盟雨林的朋友报名茶山行的第二天，雨林的员工联系我，确认行程、安排住宿、更多的细节和特殊要求，比如食物、宗教等。Day 1：Reception & Checking In第一天:接待与入住

As Rain Forest arrangedin advance, the drivers picked us up at the appointed place,then drove usdirectly to their hotel. They are supposed to pick you up mostly anywherewithin Xi Shuang Ba Na. On the way to hotel, we had nice talk with the driver,who was our driver for the next three days.他们支持西双版纳任意地点接送。雨林的安排下，司机在指定的地方接到我们，并直接载我们来到雨林庄园。回雨林庄园的路上，我们愉快的认识了陪我们渡过三天旅程的司机。

As soon as we arrivedRain Forest Head Quarter in Meng Song, Meng Hai, we were welcomed warmly by thestaff , we suddenly felt like five star guests. They, were well dressed withminority clothes, moved our luggage to our rooms after checking in. 当我们抵达位于勐海勐宋的雨林总部，我们受到了盛装的雨林少数民族小伙伴们的热烈欢迎，办妥了入住手续后，他们还帮我们搬运行李回房间，超五星级的感觉。

The Head Quarter occupies 400 mu, has their office building the exhibitionbuilding near the big gate, and warehouse nearby. There is a big swim pool onthe left side, and next to the swim pool, it is the restaurant andCommunication Center.雨林总部雨林庄园占地400亩有雨林的办公大楼、展厅和超大型仓库。入口的左边有一个大游泳池，游泳池的旁边是餐厅和交流中心。

Yes, indeed, they hotelseems like five star hotel, which we loved it so much. The guest houses are allmade of wood with French windows, surrounded by tea trees, wow, it was my dreamhouse, I whispered to my friends. Oscar, my 5-year-old son, ran everywherechecking excitedly as he always does when he’s in a new place, and told meloudly: Mum, I super like it !是的，事实上，雨林总部看起来更像我们超喜欢的五星级酒店。客房藏身于茂盛的茶树中，全部是木材与法式落地窗组成的。哇，这是我梦想中的家的样子。我轻声对我的朋友说。奥斯卡,我5岁的儿子，正到处兴奋的奔跑着，四处仔细确认，这是他每到一个新地方的习惯。他兴奋的大声告诉我：妈妈，我超级喜欢这里。

After taking shower,and rested a little bit, we headed for the dinner, which started at 6:30 pm. Wewere pleased to take some light tea before dinner in the Communication Center.沐浴之后短暂的休息了一下，我们前往餐厅，餐厅6:30点开始供餐。很高兴，赶在晚餐开始前，我们在交流中心享受了一段静谧的茶时光。

The supper was mainlylocal food, totally organic. We all enjoyed the meal the next three days.What’smore, they have one waiter serving us when we were eating and asked for moreopinion to improve service, I guess we could not asked more after have allthose excellent service and yummy food. 晚餐以当地原生态有机食物为主。我们都很期待未来三天的每一顿惊喜。更重要的是，当我们开餐后，他们安排了一个服务员专门为我们服务，在这么优质的服务和如此美食下，我想我们不好意思要求更多了。

After dinner, we had awalk around, which gave us chance to see more and love it more.晚饭后，我们围绕雨林庄园走了一圈，给我们更多的机会仔细观摩，我们发现，我们更爱它了。

Later we had chance totaste the new black tea named 流霞(flowing clouds). Iliked its caramel aroma and bright golden color, very suitable for earlyspring.随后，我们有幸得以品尝了一款叫流霞(流动云)的红茶新品。我喜欢它的焦糖香，金黄明亮的汤色，和早春超搭。

Day 2: Visiting Meng Song第二天：访问勐宋We woke up very earlythe next morning, the morning was so beautiful with light fog , talentedsingers singing in the trees. Each breathing in seemed bring us so much freshenergy that we forget to breath out.第二天，我们起得特别早。非常美丽的光雾弥漫，有才华的精灵在树上婉转歌唱。呼吸之间，每一口的吸入，给我们带来了源源不断的能量，让我们舍不得呼出。

After breakfast, wewere invited to visit the exhibition room, where represents all the teas theyhave made since 2012, till now they have launched over 60 collections of teas.With the vivid 3D map, we got to know the ancient tea mountains ranging in XiShuangBaNa.Till now Rain Forest has 100 primary factories all over different tea villages,with convenience to process fresh tea in time.早餐后,我们被邀请去展览中心,那里陈列着他们2012年以来至今生产的60款配调茶与生动立体的3 D沙盘地图,我们看到了西双版纳包含的所有古茶山。到目前为止，雨林建有100个古茶坊分布在古茶山村寨,以便能够及时收集新鲜的茶叶。

Then we could not wait to get on the pickup trucks , heading to the teamountains. All of us felt surprised that it was so considerate of Rain Forestthat they had even prepared us a bottle of tea, even for kids. We tried itright away, it tasted very nice without any bitterness. As usual I do notrecommend brew any tea in such bottle because it may ruin the infusion.However, due to the good quality of ancient tree tea, Its flavor was out of myexpectation although there lacked of much aroma. I heard that they preparedbottle for each one so we would not bring any water, which bottle will ruin theenvironment.然后我们乘坐着皮卡车,开始了茶山行。茶山的师傅为我们每人准备了一保温杯的茶，让我们在享受贴心服务的同时分外感动。我们马上打开尝尝,味道一如既往的很好没有苦涩。一般来讲，我不建议在这样的瓶子冲泡任何茶,因为它可能影响茶的味道。然而,由于高品质的古树茶,它的味道却不受影响。我听说他们准备给每一个人都准备了这样一个杯子。这样一来，在茶山上，我们不会带着任何水瓶以致破坏环境。

All the way to Meng Song refined factory, the guide introduced us Rain Forestcompany and further project via interphone which was installed in every pickuptruck. Rain Forest was going to start their Project phrase II with total areaof 400 mu(26.8 hectares), including conference room for 6,000 people max. Thereare 114 villages in Meng Song Town, and live mainly on tea. We also saw largesugarcane field for making sugar and banana trees all over one side of themountain. 在去勐宋精制厂的路上,带队师傅通过每一个安装在皮卡车上的对讲机给我们介绍了雨林古茶坊的情况。雨林将要开始他们的总面积达400亩(26.8公顷)的二期项目，可以解决这里6000人的就业。勐宋镇共有114个村寨,生活主要来源在茶。山的另一边，我们也看到种植着用来制糖的大甘蔗和香蕉树。

The uphill mountain road was very difficulty, Oscar enjoyed it a lot, he saidhe was taking roller coaster. It took around 1 hour to the refined factory, wehad nice tea there before lunch, and especially enjoyed the little trail downto the primary factory, it is brilliant since people can have a little funthere.山路崎岖,奥斯卡却很享受,他说他像坐过山车一样。我们花了约1小时间到达精制工厂,午餐前我们喝了美味的茶,在山间林荫的饮茶亭尤其享受,这是有才情的人所感受到的小乐趣。

It was too pity that we came early that we could not see the process of makingtea, because last winter was too cold. Rain Forest adopted only Copper potsinstead of iron pots , whichare the most satisfactory of all to kill green due tothe good character of holding and spread the heat well,and their tin lining does not discolor tea. Theyalso take advantage of the whole traditional skill of making black tea Meng HaiTea Factory sued , once Feng Shao Qiu invented.遗憾的是我们到来是在早春,因为去年冬天太冷，我们不能亲眼看到制茶过程。雨林采用铜锅杀青,而不是铁锅,铜锅最令人满意的是它导热快且受热均匀。他们传承的整个传统技艺是由勐海茶厂冯邵秋发明。

After lunch we had little break and continued to go further. We had to walkafter the pickup trucks drove us to the trail. We walked through an ancient teapark, any tea tree at hand can be a few hundred years old, and we were happy tosee that it was well preserved and managed.午饭后稍作休息,往下个目的地进发。皮卡车开了一段停下来后我们徒步继续。我们走过一个古茶园,每一棵棵茶树都有几百年的光阴,我们有幸能见到它们完好的留存至今。

After that we kept walking, and stopped by a transitional tea tree with ageover than 1000 years. There is different from planted tea trees, and the yellowskin has self-protective function of driving bugs away. The famous one is inBangWai village, along Lan Cang river.之后,我们一直走,在一棵过渡型千年茶树边驻足，它不同于栽培型茶树，黄色的树皮有天然的屏障作用，可以躲避那些来自害虫的伤害。最著名一棵位于澜沧江边的邦崴村。

Our destination was to visiting the real tea king, it is a planted tea treewith age of 1300 years old, owned by Rain Forest. I heard lots of rumors thattea from such trees is super expensive, and it was almost impossible to buysuch tea. While Rain Forest seldom sell it, they reward to the whole seller orthe most wonder employee, that is really encouraging. Such trees are so rareand precious, protecting them is the only way to show our gratitude nature hasgifted us. 我们的目标是访问一棵属于雨林有1300树龄的千年茶王树。我听闻这棵树上的茶十分昂贵的,也几乎不会进行售卖。而雨林古茶坊以此来奖励最优秀的经销商,真是令人鼓舞。这样的树非常罕见,珍贵,保护他们也是我们感恩大自然的赋予。

The trail was very tough and steep sometimes, no hard to see that it’s new pathwhich Rain Forest explored lately especially for the Tea Tour. The environmentis very nice, totally primeval, Nicoline was every so excited, she said shewished to bring everything home, and climb all the trees.山的小道很艰难,有时陡峭,最新路径便是雨林茶山行所开辟。环境很好,完全原始,Nicoline是如此兴奋,她说她希望把这一切都带回家,还有可以爬的树。

The whole trekking took around 2 hours, we almost were exhausted but all likedit a lot. We had a little break after coming back to refined factory, andvisited the refined workshop. Those workers were busy, seemed not interruptedby our visiting. We noticed that they put better tea on surface of cake andcurious about how could they grantee the consistent quality since theydeclaimed that the whole cake the same quality, and were told that theyactually picked the better-look tea leaves from same blending loose tea, whichmakes sense.整个徒步旅行花了两个小时,我们几乎筋疲力尽却也乐在其中。小息片刻后我们回到精制厂,参观了精制车间。这些工人聚精会神的工作，并没有因为我们的访问便中断。我们注意到,他们把更好的茶撒在表面的茶饼。出于好奇便问他们怎么保证茶叶质量是一样的,他们的解释,整个茶饼是相同的质量,实际上选择的都是一样的茶叶，只是把比较好看的放在表面,这是有道理的。

It was near 5 ‘ o clock after we went back to the head quarter. After dinner,we tried the cake name tea tour（茶山行）, which was madeespecially for the activity. This cake had flowery flavor, long-lasting sweetand thirsty quenching mouth feeling , making the tea trip more memorable.近5小时后我们回到一开始的地方。晚饭后,我们尝试雨林古茶坊茶山行纪念饼,这是有意义的活动。这款茶华丽的味道,甘甜持久,生津明显的感觉,这滋味使茶山行也变得愈加美妙。

Day 3:Visiting Bu Lang Tea Mountain and Factories.第3天:访问布朗茶山和古茶坊

The third day we proceeded to visit BuLang Mountain, where there are legendarypuer teas, like Lao Ban Zhang, Lao Man E. 第三天,我们继续进行访问布朗山,那里有经典的普洱茶 比如老班章、老曼峨。

Today we spent lots of time on pickup trucks, passed by the seventh primaryfactory at Ba Ka Nan village. There was one of the three biggest flatland inMeng Hun, where most of the Dai people live. The way to BuLang was quite nicethat Oscar felt even bored, thanks to precious ancient tea, most of the teafarmers have better life now, and government also built concrete road for them.今天我们在皮卡车上坐了很长时间,通过巴卡南村寨（雨林古茶坊）第七坊。勐混有最大的三块平原之一，很多傣族人住在那里。布朗山路不好,甚至让奥斯卡感到无聊。因为宝贵的古树茶,为了大多数的茶农民更好的生活的以茶为生,政府还建造新的道路。

It took another hour till arrived at Lao Man E village, where the twenty thirdprimary factory located. We all felt hungry after 2 hours’ driving, and couldnot wait to grab some lunch. 又花了一个小时到达老曼峨村寨,那里的工厂有三分之二的产量。2个小时的车旅，让我们在那迫不及待地吃了午餐。

Lao Man E is the oldest village on BuLang mountains, the earliest record aboutit can be dated back to 1300 years ago, it is the origin of the whole villagesat Bu Lang mountain. Right now there are over 140 families there, and believein Buddha. The village had changed a lot, new buildings were everywhere, andsome of them were under construction. 老曼峨是最古老的村寨在布朗山脉,对此最早的记录可以回到1300年前,这是整个村寨在布朗山的起源。现在有超过140个家庭那里,他们相信佛。村里改变了很多,新建筑是无处不在,还有一些是在建。

Lao Man E puer tea is very rare, special and limited. It is powerful similar asLao Ban Zhang, and has very good long last after-taste sweet,clear and goldenbright infusion. The average price of ancient tea tree is around US$ 200 forone cake(357 grams).老曼峨普洱茶是非常罕见、特别及有限的。它在茶友心中的份量如老班章一样,有很美味的漫长回甘,金黄明亮的茶汤。古树茶的平均价格约为200美元的一个茶饼(357克)。

On the way to Lao Ban Zhang, we passing by Xin Ban Zhang, we could see that therechanged a lot because of the ancient teas last years. I agree with Rain Forestthat they do not build any factory in Lao Ban Zhang village, it is too costly.Can you image there even has bank in such deep mountains, I heard that the cashflow could be over one million RMB each day during tea - picking season. Theirstory of getting rich can be a miracle, the only reason is the unique tea. Youwould never forget its taste flavor if you tried one, I mean the authentic puretea. Of course, few common people could afford such luxury. The buyers mostlyseek Lao Ban Zhang for collection, chasing its future value. It is typicaledible antique.在去老班章的路上,我们经过新班章,我们可以看到因为古树茶的原因这里有了很大改变。我同意雨林,他们不构建任何工厂在老班章村,那太昂贵。你能想象在这样的深山脉甚至还有银行,我听说，在茶叶生产季节这里的现金流每天可能超过一百万元人民币。他们的致富故事可能是一个奇迹,唯一的原因是独特的茶。如果你尝试一个那是你永远不会忘记的味道,我的意思是真实的纯茶。当然,一些对此常见的人们可以负担得起这样的奢侈品。买方主要寻求老班章陈化,追逐未来的价值。这是典型的食用古董。

We were supposed to visit Ban Pen village, and just stopped by this time sincethey had not started to making tea. We had a break at He Kai, walking into thedeep ancient tea park.我们本想去参观班盆寨，这次正好顺路经过，这个时间他们还没开始做茶。我们在贺开有一个旅程,走进深山古茶园。

He Kai owns the largest ancient tea park with area of 16,200 mus(1,085hectares), at elevations between 1400 - 1750 meters. Tea tress range 300 - 1400years old. The environment is well - protected that crab feet, a Chinesemedicine, lives on those tea trees.贺开拥有最大的面积16200亩(1085公顷)的古茶园,海拔在1400年至1750米。树龄范围300 - 1400岁。环境保护的很好,中医药材都长在那些茶树上。

Such a long day’sdriving, it was a pleasant time to drink cups of tea after dinner. We discussedabout reluctant departure tomorrow, and all hoped that we would join themprocessing tea next time. 这样一天的漫长车途,晚饭后喝杯茶便是愉快的时间。我们都在说明天真不愿离开,我们都希望下次能加入他们制作茶。

Thanks to Rain Forest, we had an memorable and meaningful tea tour, whichhelped us understand ancient puer tea better, and cherish each cup of tea more.As an super puer lover, I understood the receipt was the key, while Istill wished to get more information about the teas which they werereluctant to reveal. If there would have some tea ceremony , or tea food, ortea festival, that would be perfect although it was almost be.因为雨林,我们有一个令人难忘的而有意义的茶山行,使我们更好的了解古树普洱茶,更多珍惜每杯茶。作为一个超级普洱茶爱好者,我理解制茶是关键,而我还希望得到更多关于茶的信息，他们不太方便透露。如果能有一些茶道,或茶点,或茶节日,这将是完美的，尽管现在已经快是这样了。

Now I am excited about Pu'erh tea tour in April, are you in?现在我很期待今年4月的茶山行,你来吗?